Is the budweiser keg something you got from them directly? I'm looking at doing a conversion myself, and was about to head over to Marion Scrap next week to get started, but if I can get one from the supplier, that would be much better.
T. Powersox
Keg to Kettle Conversion
Cut Open the Keg
John
I picked up a Keg from Marion Scrap a while back to make a mash tun. Have all the tool to cut the top but haven't started the project. Too much stuff in the garage, too cold.......
I have a 3 " and 4 1/2 inch angle grinders and step bits. If want to we could have Cut-Open the Keg get-together.
I picked up a Keg from Marion Scrap a while back to make a mash tun. Have all the tool to cut the top but haven't started the project. Too much stuff in the garage, too cold.......
I have a 3 " and 4 1/2 inch angle grinders and step bits. If want to we could have Cut-Open the Keg get-together.
I am soon going to try an electric setup. HLT and BK with the Camco 5500w low density element. It looks like the newest setup by DrPaulson has the same element. Will use a 10gallon Rubbermaid cooler for the MT and batch sparge, future may put a HERMS coil in the HLT.
I will be following much of the electric brewery dot com instructions, although I think the attachment of the element to the kettle is slightly sketchy.
DrPaulson, could I get details about how you mounted your elements? Or if possible... could I come see them?
McMaster has full size silicone high temp gaskets. To me this sounds like a better seal than orings.
Thoughts?
Paul
I will be following much of the electric brewery dot com instructions, although I think the attachment of the element to the kettle is slightly sketchy.
DrPaulson, could I get details about how you mounted your elements? Or if possible... could I come see them?
McMaster has full size silicone high temp gaskets. To me this sounds like a better seal than orings.
Thoughts?
Paul
You would want to use a high temp gaskets, silicone would be preferrable this is especially true on the boil kettle as I am not sure o-rings are rated for tempatures high enough. Though I could be wrong on that. The ones they use on theElectricBrewery.com are silicone gaskets if you check out the parts list.
The other thing is. I do thing his connection is sound. He has properly grounded the application and sealed all electrical components away from any potential liquid in its own casing that is well sealed. The major upgrade I would see is getting stainless bulkheads and having those welded into your kettle or keggle and doing away with the weldless fitting.
I have done a lot of research into the electric route myself and already have developed plans for an electric system. The one I am building is a cross between the Brutius 10 system and the Electric Brewery system. I am using the stand system (modified) from the Bruitus ten and the element schematic of The Electric Brewery system with the modification that I am going to run seperate 220 power for the HLT and boil kettle and change up the panel to accomidate this change so that if desired I can go straight into a second mash onces transferred to boil kettle if I choose. Also looked at the using a BSC-462 as the control mechism for it. Though I don't like the idea of not being able to monitor from the brewery. If I did that I would have to modify my work room for a laptop and internet. Not sure if I am ready to do that. However, all the probes and stuff are the same, so I could always switch over to the BCS after I get the rig, kettles, and probeing done.
The other thing is. I do thing his connection is sound. He has properly grounded the application and sealed all electrical components away from any potential liquid in its own casing that is well sealed. The major upgrade I would see is getting stainless bulkheads and having those welded into your kettle or keggle and doing away with the weldless fitting.
I have done a lot of research into the electric route myself and already have developed plans for an electric system. The one I am building is a cross between the Brutius 10 system and the Electric Brewery system. I am using the stand system (modified) from the Bruitus ten and the element schematic of The Electric Brewery system with the modification that I am going to run seperate 220 power for the HLT and boil kettle and change up the panel to accomidate this change so that if desired I can go straight into a second mash onces transferred to boil kettle if I choose. Also looked at the using a BSC-462 as the control mechism for it. Though I don't like the idea of not being able to monitor from the brewery. If I did that I would have to modify my work room for a laptop and internet. Not sure if I am ready to do that. However, all the probes and stuff are the same, so I could always switch over to the BCS after I get the rig, kettles, and probeing done.
I use 1" straight thread nuts with a recess for an o-ring in my weldless fittings. I'm pretty sure I bought them from Weldless Fittings, but Bargain Fittings has them, too. I've tried silicone washers before and found they do not perform very well on curved surfaces, so I would recommend o-rings with a little silicone sealant as needed.
Are you using kegs or kettles? Whatever you choose, make sure you have a good grounding point for the neutral line, otherwise your GFCI will be useless.
You're more than welcome to swing by and check out my setup. I'll PM you with my address and we can work something out.
Welcome to the dark side,
Lee
Are you using kegs or kettles? Whatever you choose, make sure you have a good grounding point for the neutral line, otherwise your GFCI will be useless.
You're more than welcome to swing by and check out my setup. I'll PM you with my address and we can work something out.
Welcome to the dark side,
Lee
Update. Bought the air comperessor 3" cutter. Tried using it with a 125 psi compressor and the compressor couldn't keep up. Howbrew, I would love to get together and cut these tops off. I'll be available next Sunday but I'm heading to madison next Saturday. The bjcp meeting starts at 2:00 next Sunday but could cut at 1:00 if you're available.
John Eikenberry
For my element, I used the kit form bargain fittings that is a stainless 1" nut with a recess with a silcone O-ring. I did not add any sealant but I had to tighten very tight to stop the leaks.
Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North
On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout
Slappy Brewing North
On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout
Keg to Kettle Conversion
Where did you get your quick disconnects?
Post generated using Mail2Forum (http://www.mail2forum.com)For my element, I used the kit form bargain fittings that is a stainless 1" nut with a recess with a silcone O-ring. I did not add any sealant but I had to tighten very tight to stop the leaks.
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Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North
Re: Keg to Kettle Conversion
I got them from Hobby Beverage the makers of the plastic minibrew conicals. I think the stainless ones out there would be cool, but these are cheap, no moving parts, and have worked fine for me for nearly 8 years. Prices have gone up slightly but are still very low.
http://www.minibrew.com/index.php?main_ ... c4a93e99bd
http://www.minibrew.com/index.php?main_ ... c4a93e99bd
JimPotts wrote:Where did you get your quick disconnects?
Post generated using Mail2Forum (http://www.mail2forum.com)For my element, I used the kit form bargain fittings that is a stainless 1" nut with a recess with a silcone O-ring. I did not add any sealant but I had to tighten very tight to stop the leaks.
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Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North
Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North
On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout
Slappy Brewing North
On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout