Club Tap Box

Post by **JimPotts** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 9:58 am

As you heard if you were at the last meeting, the club is trying to complete the tap box for the Benz fest. It will be a portable bar with 9 taps.

If you have any items you'd like to donate (taps, hose, hardwood, etc) please post here.

-Jim

CMLarrison · Post by **CMLarrison** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:25 am

What kind of hardwood would we be looking for and what size and lengths? I would be willing to donate some wood for this project. I am also skilled in the art of staining and varnishing if that helps at all.

Thanks,

Clint Larrison

brownbeard · Post by **brownbeard** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 11:53 am

I have at least one faucet I can donate. And my brass rail.

Post by **JimPotts** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 12:42 pm

CMLarrison wrote:What kind of hardwood would we be looking for and what size and lengths? I would be willing to donate some wood for this project. I am also skilled in the art of staining and varnishing if that helps at all.

The current plan is to build it out of birch ply, with a mahogany or walnut stain. The trim pieces are hardwood. They either need to match the ply, or be a slightly darker finish.

So in any case, we'll need the following hardwood 1x4 (nominal) strips: two 40", two 36", and two 72". Depending on what we use for the bar top, we need either a plank (2x12x74"), or a double ply layer with trim wrapping it.

Note, we're not dead-set on mahogany. If someone has a bunch of oak to donate, we'll go that route. But we need to buy the ply soon to get started.

Oh, and we'll gladly take help with staining and varnishing. Since it will be used in a wet environment (set up on grass, etc), we need a good seal to protect the ply. We'll be using a clear "bar top" epoxy for the bar top. For the rest, I think either more epoxy (a bit pricey, and a bit shiny), or perhaps a spar urethane. I'm most certainly open to suggestions on this!

-Jim

Matt F · Post by **Matt F** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 12:53 pm

To protect the wood on the bottom, especially with moisture and on rough gravel surfaces, try a layer of a synthetic wood on the perimeter of the base. Could use stuff like composite wood used for decks. I saw this application a lot when researching chicken coop plans that were mobile. A color close to the final finish should blend in OK. You can install it a bit back from the face to hide it if it just doesn't look right.

Mr T · Post by **Mr T** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 1:18 pm

Is the wood sitting directly on the ground or we could use castors..would also be key in leveling and avoid direct contact of wood to ground
Sent from my U.S. CellularÂ® Android phone

Matt F <brew-members@crbeernuts.org> wrote:

To protect the wood on the bottom, especially with moisture and on rough gravel surfaces, try a layer of a synthetic wood on the perimeter of the base. Could use stuff like composite wood used for decks. I saw this application a lot when researching chicken coop plans that were mobile. A color close to the final finish should blend in OK. You can install it a bit back from the face to hide it if it just doesn't look right.

------------------------
Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North

Post generated using Mail2Forum (http://www.mail2forum.com)

Post by **JimPotts** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 3:18 pm

Levelers certainly help (and I was planning on them), but if you set up on grass (or dirt) you still often end up with wood resting on the ground. Plus there will be drunk people spilling beer all over the sucker. Plus, it could easily get rained on (even with the canopy over head). Hence, we should plan on a wet-environment finish.

Basically, we're building a piece of outdoor furniture. This doesn't increase the cost or anything, it just slightly limits our choice of finishes.

-Jim

On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 2:19 PM, Mr T <brew-members@crbeernuts.org (brew-members@crbeernuts.org)> wrote:

Is the wood sitting directly on the ground or we could use castors..would also be key in leveling and avoid direct contact of wood to ground

Post generated using Mail2Forum (http://www.mail2forum.com)

CMLarrison · Post by **CMLarrison** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:58 pm

I have the 1X4 oak boards for the tap box ready to go. They are still in 8' lengths so they will have to be cut accordingly. Do we know where this tap box will be built and schedule to start building?

Clint Larrison

kjball · Post by **kjball** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 1:09 pm

I have a faucet to donate, no shank or handle to go with it, though

JimF · Post by **JimF** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:35 am

Here is a used 12 tap tower for sale: http://kegcowboy.com/index.php?dispatch ... uct_id=340

kurtford · Post by **kurtford** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 12:29 pm

10 tap from ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/BEER-TAP-TOWER-10-T ... 3cb64e051a

jjbuck · Post by **jjbuck** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:21 pm

I would like to donate 4 faucet pug/brushes and a line flushing system. Where should I drop them off?

brownbeard · Post by **brownbeard** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:49 pm

kurtford wrote:10 tap from ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/BEER-TAP-TOWER-10-T ... 3cb64e051a

That would be perfect. And an awesome price.

Post by **JimPotts** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 3:14 pm

I saw this one too. I'm going to try to snag it. If we get it, we'll need to have a lid made for it, but that's cheap.

kurtford wrote:10 tap from ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/BEER-TAP-TOWER-10-T ... 3cb64e051a

Post by **JimPotts** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 3:14 pm

jjbuck wrote:I would like to donate 4 faucet pug/brushes and a line flushing system. Where should I drop them off?

You can drop stuff off at my place.

-Jim

Cedar Rapids Brewing Society

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