Aroma Hops - Oops

Gjoseph · Post by **Gjoseph** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 9:49 am

So a buddy of mine was brewing and accidently put in his aroma hops (Williamette) around the 20 minute left mark instead of the 2 minute left mark. His SG was 1.050 instead of the 1.042 it called for.

Any idea what his end result might be?

Matt F · Post by **Matt F** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 9:55 am

I would say you won't have near as much aroma and you will get more bitterness from the longer boil. Good thing is the gravity is higher and may be able to balance out the increase in bitterness. In the end, still beer, should be fine.

BrewHound · Post by **BrewHound** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 11:11 am

Matt F wrote:I would say you won't have near as much aroma and you will get more bitterness from the longer boil. Good thing is the gravity is higher and may be able to balance out the increase in bitterness. In the end, still beer, should be fine.

agreed

Mr T · Post by **Mr T** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 11:53 am

You can always do a little dry hopping to get some of that flavor and aromatics back.

From: BrewHound [mailto:brew-tech@crbeernuts.org]
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 12:12 PM
To: brew-tech@crbeernuts.org
Subject: Re: Aroma Hops - Oops

Matt F wrote:
I would say you won't have near as much aroma and you will get more bitterness from the longer boil. Good thing is the gravity is higher and may be able to balance out the increase in bitterness. In the end, still beer, should be fine.

agreed

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Gjoseph · Post by **Gjoseph** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 12:30 pm

Mr T wrote:You can always do a little dry hopping to get some of that flavor and aromatics back.

Dry Hopping sucks - just did that on Tuesday and trying to get 2 oz of leaf hops down the neck of a glass carboy is a bitch...

hoboscratch · Post by **hoboscratch** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:32 pm

I ferment in buckets and what I will usually do is toss my dry hops in after fermentation is complete. If you want to harvest yeast its best to do it from your starter or bag 'em, otherwise you will have a mess doing it this way. Just make sure fermentation is complete or you will lose aroma. I usually skip secondaries anyway, so this works for me. Obviously if you ferment in carboys this doesn't help you in any way, shape, or form!

Matt F · Post by **Matt F** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:48 pm

I use carboys and find dry hopping to be pretty painless. My procedure is primary in a 6.5 gallon carboy. I then rack to a sanitized 5 gallon carboy for secondary. I put the dry hops in and then rack the beer in. The key is I use pellets. I did leaf hops in a carboy once and that was not going to happen again. I harvest yeast from the 6.5 gallon primary carboy or just pitch the next beer right on top. When I am done dry hopping, usually about 7 days, I put the 5 gallon carboy in my fridge. All the hops fall out of suspension and I rack clear beer in to a keg.

I only do secondaries when dry hopping or playing with something. Most of the time I do primary and then keg. I have dry hopped in kegs too which works well as they are not bad to clean. I have also just thrown a sack of hops in a keg instead of messing with a secondary for dry hopping. Last beer I did that with was "Dumb Bastard" and I was happy with how it turned out. That was an oops beer where I put in the hops for a 5 gallon batch but was brewing 10 gallons. The dry hops fixed it.

hoboscratch · Post by **hoboscratch** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:57 pm

FWIW, I have read that dry hopping in the keg at fridge temps will cut back on your aroma, so it should still be done at cool, but not cold, temps. That said, I have dry hopped in the keg both ways...room temps and cold.

Matt F · Post by **Matt F** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:59 pm

Agreed, I don't get the beer cold until I am ready to remove hops and keg. Extraction seems to be better near room temperature. Then keep cold to preserve the aromas.