Copper pipe

kjball · Post by **kjball** » Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:12 am

Hey guys, I have a moderate amount of 1/2 inch copper pipe that I removed from a bathroom demo. I'm going to send it to the scrappers, but with all the brewery construction going on here, I though I would put it up for grabs in case anyone wanted it. Let me know and I can bring it to the meeting next week.

hoboscratch · Post by **hoboscratch** » Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:40 am

I've been thinking of switching my mash tun over from SS braids to a copper manifold. i would take some of the pipe. I'm not sure how much I would need exactly, but a quick calculation would be around 8-10'. Do you have that much? What were you asking for it in terms of price?

kjball · Post by **kjball** » Wed Mar 07, 2012 9:04 am

I have that much I'll bring what I have to the next meeting. I don't need anything for it, I'm just happy that someone is using it.

kjball · Post by **kjball** » Wed Mar 07, 2012 9:06 am

It is in smaller pieces connected with sweat fittings. It's a variety of lengths. I'm sure you could easily cut it down to make a manifold.

hoboscratch · Post by **hoboscratch** » Wed Mar 07, 2012 9:11 am

Right on! Thanks!

Matt F · Post by **Matt F** » Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:37 pm

You may already know this but, when you make your manifold, most of the copper pieces should hold together tight enough that you do not need to solder them or anything. Makes it easier to disassemble for cleaning.

brownbeard · Post by **brownbeard** » Wed Mar 07, 2012 2:41 pm

Matt F wrote:You may already know this but, when you make your manifold, most of the copper pieces should hold together tight enough that you do not need to solder them or anything. Makes it easier to disassemble for cleaning.

Mine is almost completely soldered, except for a moving T piece, where it connects to the bulkhead.

BrewHound · Post by **BrewHound** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:58 am

brownbeard wrote:
Matt F wrote:You may already know this but, when you make your manifold, most of the copper pieces should hold together tight enough that you do not need to solder them or anything. Makes it easier to disassemble for cleaning.
Mine is almost completely soldered, except for a moving T piece, where it connects to the bulkhead.

It doesn't add much value as the purpose is to separate wort from the grain, as the connection site is too small for a piece of grain to go through, it doesn't add anything other then ensuring that separation of the joint doesn't occur during mashing.

brownbeard · Post by **brownbeard** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 1:55 pm

BrewHound wrote:
brownbeard wrote:
Matt F wrote:You may already know this but, when you make your manifold, most of the copper pieces should hold together tight enough that you do not need to solder them or anything. Makes it easier to disassemble for cleaning.
Mine is almost completely soldered, except for a moving T piece, where it connects to the bulkhead.
It doesn't add much value as the purpose is to separate wort from the gain, as the connection site is too small for a piece of grain to go through, it doesn't add anything other then ensuring that separation of the joint doesn't occur during mashing.

AS a batch sparger, I am stirring the hell out of the mash when I add water. I don't want to worry about knocking my manifold apart while I am beating the hell out of my grain bed.

Matt F · Post by **Matt F** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 2:19 pm

If you have a converted keg as a mashtun, I have been really happy with this false bottom. $39.00 at Midwest and $51.99 at Northern Brewer. Again, multiple retail locations and flat rate shipping will cost you.

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/11-sanke ... ottom.html

BrewHound · Post by **BrewHound** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 5:12 pm

I have that exact model, and would be willing to part with when I get the new brewery up and running.