I have a three tier system (four if you count the floor) built from 1" square steel tube. I had it welded up for me at a classic car repair shop. It's really sturdy but is entirely fixed in configuration. But, that said, I have clamped and/or bolted various things to it. Having done this once, I would say I was fairly successful, but there are some changes I would make. That said, it's still really functional and does what I need.
Homebrewing is an ever evolving process as you get interested in trying new techniques. Given that, I'd recommend the Uni-strut method. You can reconfigure things or entirely redesign your brewery and reuse the parts. Or expand as necessary.
My vote would be for welded steel unless you can get a really good price on unistrut. I doubt you'll find strut cheaper than angle iron (especially if you go to Marion Iron). However you said you have "access to" a welder and saw... not sure how much that access costs you so YMMV.
Marion Iron sells used rusty steel no? I know, it's steel, wire wheel it, weld it and paint. I was going to call Storm Steel to get a price and I'll call Marion Iron also to see. They are right down the road from me.
My next door neighbor and a best friend both have chop saws and welders so it shouldn't be too difficult to melt some metal.
Yeah, Marion iron will sell surplus steel that is behind their shop. The surplus is usually new steel or lightly used. Its all good stuff. I doubt they will know what they have in surplus if you call them.. its easier to just stop by and take a look. Even if they dont have what you want in surplus its likely cheaper to go new steel versus strut, but ymmv.
mjmarsha wrote:Yeah, Marion iron will sell surplus steel that is behind their shop. The surplus is usually new steel or lightly used. Its all good stuff. I doubt they will know what they have in surplus if you call them.. its easier to just stop by and take a look. Even if they dont have what you want in surplus its likely cheaper to go new steel versus strut, but ymmv.
Yeah unless you get a hook up, I think strut adds up fast.
I could care less if it's used steel. I'm not building art here I will stop by tomorrow while running errands. Need to get a rough idea on footage. Like go with a mixture 1.5" square and angle.
$1.50/foot roughly. Need to finalize my stand in CAD and get a total footage. Need to decide if keggle storage underneath is needed into the design or not. The amount it's gets transported won't be terribly often I'd imagine
As far as "finishing"or painting goes, here was my technique. Even though I was using new steel tube from Storm Steel, I deliberately "aged" my material for a number of months while actually working on a car at the shop in question... This deliberate technique had the effect intended: a light coat of surface rust. This was the perfect preparation for a coat of POR-15 paint! (A paint that is specially designed to convert and bond with rust and make a very tough finish)
So, the point is, if you're getting used steel from Marion Iron, just knock off the loose stuff and use POR-15.
I have 3 torch burners that come on typical turkey fryers and a 5 and 10psi regulator. Would those work in the interim? I do 5 gallon which I'm sure it would work, but would it work for 10 gallon batches?
I use propane and can also get a 30psi regulator also to kick out some more BTU's
Last edited by Bones on Mon Jan 13, 2014 10:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
I do have a KAB6, which has a BG14 I believe. Its quiet and quick [after a couple modifications to the stand for a keg vs a flat bottom pot]. I seem to remember bringing 13 gallons from sparge to boil in ~20-25 minute time frame. I think it's worth the investment for the BK if you have the budget, likely overkill on the HLT. Although when you crack her all the way open she goes through fuel fast
Automation will come down the road once I get used to this
I will stop by tomorrow while running errands. Need to get a rough idea on footage. Like go with a mixture 1.5" square and angle.
