When do you find time to brew?

Discussions about brewing equipment / design.
Locked
User avatar
Matt F
Posts: 3771
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:09 pm
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

When do you find time to brew?

Post by Matt F »

I am often asked how I find time to brew with four active kids and a lot of stuff always going on. It is not easy but it often involves late nights and multi-tasking during a brew session. My wife was out of town which increases the work load with the kids, but keeps her out of my way. ;) I brewed on Wednesday and this is how it went.

Noon - Stop at BIY on way home for lunch from work. Pick up a few specialty grains I was missing. The brew is basically a Pliny the Elder clone. Over lunch weigh out grain and crush. Fill HLT with 12.5 gallons of water (5 gallon batch in the end) and add water treatment stuff. Turn on electric HLT and set to desired mash temperature 152F.

5:15 – Arrive home from work, pump mash water from already heated HLT to mashtun and mix in grain. I mash in low, hook up tubing to HERMS coil in HLT and start the pump. The mash will rise up to desired mash temp set on the HLT. The pump runs during my entire mash. This will maintain the mash right where I want it.

5:20 – Go pick up my kids from neighbors house. That is where they all went after school this week while my wife was out of town. Mash should be fine.

5:45 – Arrive back home, check mash temp, it is perfect. Cook dinner. Spaghetti was the dish of the evening. Used pre-made sauce, so not much to it.

6:15 – Check mash, it is all good. Set PID for HLT to 168F and leave pump running. Mash temp will rise to mashout with temp increase in HLT. Add FWH to boil kettle so I don’t forget later. Go back upstairs, load dishwasher, then help the kids with homework.

6:45 – Start sparge. I pump from my mashtun to the boil kettle. I recently added an AutoSparge to the mashtun so I open the ball valve on the HLT and leave it be. Flow is controlled by the ball valve on the pump and the AutoSparge keeps the liquid in the mashtun under control. I turn on the gas burner once at least 4 gallons of wort is collected. I try to sparge as slow as I can without the flow stopping. Go back upstairs and do family stuff.

7:15 – Sparge is complete. The burner is already running, and getting close to boiling temp.

7:20 – Begin 90 minute boil. Hops are already in it from FWH addition. Once boil seems good to go, time to attend to kids again. Next addition is in an hour.

7:30 – Get kids in to PJ’s, review homework, listen to piano and violin practices, brush teeth, read bedtime stories and take care of any other miscellaneous items.

8:20 – Most of the kids are in bed, return to brewery and make the next hop addition. Head back upstairs to get rest of kids in to bed.

8:30 – All kids in bed, return to brewery, empty mashtun and clean, make hop additions , move whirlpool immersion chiller from HLT (HERMS) to boil kettle, toss in a whirlfloc.

8:50 – Boil is done, cut burner, quick chill to 200F, add whirlpool hops and using the pump, whirlpool for 30 minutes.

9:20 – Turn on chilling water and once temp gets to 170F, throw in some more whirlpool hops and continue to chill.

9:30 – Wort to 70F, turn off whirlpool and leave to settle. Continue to run chill water for a bit to drop a few more degrees. Sanitize 6 gallon Better Bottle.

10:00 – Drain boil kettle to fermenter, aerate and pitch yeast from starter made night before. Move temp controller from brew stand to fermenting fridge. Move fermenter in to fridge, clean boil kettle and chiller. I finished up around 10:30.

The multi-tasking is not ideal and makes for a hectic evening. I would rather not brew this way but it is often the only way to squeeze in a brew. The key to being able to brew this way is the design of the system. The electric HLT with a HERMS coil (the same used for chiller) is key. It allows me to get home from work with all my water for a 5 gallon batch already heated up and ready to go. I can pump to boil kettle and heat up if I want to skip the first step with a low strike temp. The mash recirculates the entire time to control mash temp. Many systems turn a pump on and off to control the mash temp. This adds more controllers and complexity and as a cheap ass, I try to do the minimum and keep things simple. I have noticed no ill affect from recirculation the entire mash time. Wort gets very clean as a result. This is the same thing Tastey McDole does and he makes some fine beer.

I recently added a Blichmann AutoSparge that allows me to leave the brew session unattended during the sparge too. This has been a nice addition to my system. It is a simple device and meets my needs perfectly.

I almost always do a 90 minute boil, so having a large gap between hop additions frees up time too. Other than FWH, I usually don’t add any hops until close to the end of the boil so that can free up an hour or so.

I built my brewery over many years with small upgrades here and there. Here is an equipment list and some costs. I have about $700 invested in the system. Scoring a stand and some free keggles was a huge savings. Pretty much all fittings are stainless with some plastic QD’s.

-14 gallon boil kettle; purchased from St. Pat’s in Austin when they stopped selling homebrew supplies; $90
-Two keggles, found one keg in the dump while getting rid of some trash and decided it needed a good home. The other keg was given to me by a co-worker when they could not find anyone that would take it as a return. It had been in their garage keg fridge a long time.
-Brew stand was made by a friend for beer, and an old turkey fryer stand is under the mashtun
-Hurricane burner (no stand) with natural gas orifice (Williams Brewing) $36
-March 809 pump; $100
-Whirlpool immersion chiller; $100 (sale from More Beer)
-Johnson a419 temp controller; $70
-many various stainless steel ball valves, thermometers, silicone tubing and other stuff; $150ish
-ABT false bottom for keggle mashtun; $30
-Water heater insulation wrap for mashtun from Menards; $cheap
-Stainless steel electric heating element; $40
-Blichmann AutoSparge; $70

Many of these items were given to me as Christmas gifts. A ball valve here, tubing there, etc… I started building this system in 2003 so it took many years to get where it is today.
Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North

On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout
User avatar
czubak
Posts: 940
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:12 am
Location: SW CR

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by czubak »

I really like your setup and it's simplicity. I am talking with my neighbor who is a supervisor for a large electrical contractor and have him either wire me up a 220 spa panel to eventually go full electric, or the ability to run a dedicated 110V element with a Johnson Controls unit you have and my pump(s) and use my immersion chiller in the same manner. Currently my garage wiring is only 15amp and 14ga wiring. It's hit and miss when my homemade heat stick will trip the GFCI. Now that I have a mini fridge and kegorator I unplug everything just to be able to run my heat stick and am nervous to do this while I am away from the house.

So for now I am going to continue with propane until I can get my electrical needs satisfied.
Chris Zubak
User avatar
Matt F
Posts: 3771
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:09 pm
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by Matt F »

If you can up to the higher voltage that would be nicer. I plan to do that eventually to be able to increase temps faster. There is already a 100 amp subpanel in my brewery so it wouldn't take much. My element is rated to run at the higher voltage. It takes a while to heat the water now. When in a hurry I also have a natural gas burner I can kick on under the HLT. If I was starting from scratch I would fork out the coin for the electric elements from Blichmann. I have to rub off surface rust because part of the element is not stainless. The Blichmann coils only need two smaller holes and only stainless touches the liquid.
Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North

On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout
User avatar
czubak
Posts: 940
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:12 am
Location: SW CR

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by czubak »

I found a link for some stainless elements for much cheaper. http://www.southernboystills.com/#!prod ... ng-element

Problem with going 220 is the domino effect. Then you can't use the Johnson Controls piece on the 220 element, so you are into PID's control box, etc. Might as well power up the BK then also.
Chris Zubak
User avatar
Matt F
Posts: 3771
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:09 pm
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by Matt F »

That is what I have now, even same wattage, That piece where the stainless connects is not stainless and will rust. That is the area I have to clean up every time I brew. At the end of a brew session already has a layer of surface rust. Works though.
Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North

On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout
User avatar
czubak
Posts: 940
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:12 am
Location: SW CR

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by czubak »

I plan to get a solderable tri-clover piece to be able to remove mine for easier cleaning. For now I just use my POS heat stick and only would need a thermowell and a temp control like the digital johnson controls piece. I have the analog and it only goes up to 80* IIRC.

So I brewed a 5 gallon lager yesterday and it was my first brew with the auto-sparge. I am wondering if it's mounted too high on my keggle? Could have been operator error, but it seems the float tube is too short and blowing bubbles into the mash and not a smooth flow since it was practically dangling and not laying on the grains. In the past I always just laid a longer piece of tubing on top of the grains. I did't take any pics of the autosparge, but this is the setup as of yesterday. I did pull the wort off very slowly and I am wondering if that alone helped my gravity numbers. I am usually a few points low and today I was 6 points high. 1.050 recipe and 1.056 is what I got. Not a huge deal, but I think running it off slowly really helps.
Image

This is how I always recirculated in the past.
Image
Chris Zubak
User avatar
Matt F
Posts: 3771
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:09 pm
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by Matt F »

My tube is really short but still makes it to the top of the grain bed. I stopped at BIY to try to score a longer tube but the silcone tube sent from Blichmann is a thinner wall so the usual silicone tubing you can buy won't fit the float that comes with the autosparge. You could get 3/8" ID silcone tubing and lay on the grain bed like you did before and ditch the float. I also use to use a long piece of tubing and lay it on the grain bed.

Even with the shorter tube I still make it to the top of a low ABV 5 gallon batch. How much water do you mix per pound? I use 1.5 quarts per pound and would have now problem using more if necessary to raise liquid level in the mash tun.
Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North

On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout
User avatar
czubak
Posts: 940
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:12 am
Location: SW CR

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by czubak »

I think my beer smith config is 1.25qt. With only a 10# grain bill and how high mine is mounted I would have to really up the ratio. Just something I need to play with and see if it works for me.
Chris Zubak
User avatar
johnnyik
Posts: 197
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:51 am
Location: Center Point, IA

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by johnnyik »

Matt, have you ever thought about induction burners? I am building my indoor brewery this winter and want to get two 3000 watt induction burners with a 220V outlet to run them. Seems clean, efficient, and easy to use...no drilling into the side of my kettles. Good article this past spring in BYO or Zymurgy about it.
John Eikenberry
User avatar
Matt F
Posts: 3771
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:09 pm
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by Matt F »

I saw that article and think those are cool. I just like playing with fire. People get really worried about using gas, but natural gas is lighter than standard air so won't pool in the basement like propane and vents really easy. With the burner I use there are no CO2 issues. I keep a natural gas/CO2 meter near the brew stand and have never had a reading. I have been brewing in my basement with natural gas since 2006 at least once a month and have had no problems.

The induction heaters were a pit pricey as I recall and what I have now works well. My main heat source was only $30! I have no plans to change. If I was starting from scratch I may have tried some other things, but the simplicity of turning on fire under the kettle is something I have come to appreciate as I see peoples systems get more and more complex. Once my boil is going, I don't mind leaving it unattended and just peak at it once in a while when I am busy. Typically I am boiling after the kids are in bed and that is when I am cleaning my mash tun, sanitize the ferementer and take care of all the other brew day busy work.

If I did induction I would likely need all new kettles. I don't think keggles work for induction so it is a bit cost prohibitive for me. My keggles where free and my boil kettle only $90.
Last edited by Matt F on Fri Oct 03, 2014 7:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North

On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout
User avatar
czubak
Posts: 940
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:12 am
Location: SW CR

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by czubak »

When using your temp controller to heat the HLT do you just dial the temp up to your target or do you need to open the unit to change the jumpers to "heat mode".

About to pull the trigger on one and reading some specs I saw this and wasn't sure if it was aimed at people using this in the aquarium or reptile hobby.
The temperature range is -30 degrees F to 212 degrees F. The A419 controller can be used for heating or cooling depending on the jumper settings. Jumper settings are easily adjusted. Refer to the product manual for instructions. These units are prewired and ready for use.
Chris Zubak
User avatar
Matt F
Posts: 3771
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:09 pm
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by Matt F »

Yup, any time you need to switch from cooling to heating you have to open up the unit and move the jumper. Northern brewer has a newer one with a switch that I believe works the same. I know I would rather have a switch. When I got mine all people were using is the Johnson or the Ranco and the Johnson was cheaper. Lots of different options out there now most with a switch from hot to cold that is easy to access. Ton of them were on display at NHC.
Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North

On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout
User avatar
czubak
Posts: 940
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:12 am
Location: SW CR

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by czubak »

I bought a Johnson. Not a huge deal, just wanted to check before I tried to set it to 152 out of the box. It won't be my main fermentation controller so I doubt I switch it around much.
Chris Zubak
User avatar
JimPotts
Site Admin
Posts: 974
Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:59 pm
Location: Cedar Rapids

Re: When do you find time to brew?

Post by JimPotts »

johnnyik wrote:Matt, have you ever thought about induction burners? I am building my indoor brewery this winter and want to get two 3000 watt induction burners with a 220V outlet to run them. Seems clean, efficient, and easy to use...no drilling into the side of my kettles. Good article this past spring in BYO or Zymurgy about it.
A late follow-up. As someone who owns a (much smaller wattage) induction burner, it can be hit or miss as to whether a particular kettle or pan will work. Only certain stainless grades work, and most cheap stuff doesn't include any.

That said, if you have kettles that are rated for induction, then go for it. They're pretty cool.

-Jim
Locked