Racked my blueberry mead today; 3 gallons into a 3 gallon carboy (from my supplier Chris Z) and 2 gallons into a bucket and added 7 pounds of blueberry/blackberry/raspberry mix - and that came up just shy of 3 gallons.
The SG is at 1.026 for the mead...did not take an SG for the mead/berry mix.
Now we wait. Might rack the mead off of the berries in September.
The lees had a nice smell....the mead itself was pleasant...and had a slight tang to it....but I read that blueberry honey has that characteristic, so I'm not worried.
If I have enough time tonight...will rack off the Blackberry Mead in the same manner....but I will be adding about 6 pounds of fresh Mango (frozen and then thawed) into two of the gallons.
Looking to pick up some local honey to make Pat's Lime Ginger Fruit and Spice Mead.
In about a year, should have a nice collection of mead in the cellar.
Mead 101
Re: Mead 101
I think I might pitch some more yeast in the Blueberry....the Blackberry came in quite dry at a SG of 1.006. In fact, I am going to keep an eye on the Blackberry Mango, to make sure it starts fermenting again.
I am wondering if some sorbate did not find its way into the Blueberry Honey....the fermentation was vigorous for a short period of time and then ceased....but it has a nice sweet flavor.
The Blackberry is nice too, but might need just a little back sweetening.
I am wondering if some sorbate did not find its way into the Blueberry Honey....the fermentation was vigorous for a short period of time and then ceased....but it has a nice sweet flavor.
The Blackberry is nice too, but might need just a little back sweetening.
In the Fridge/On Tap: English Bitter, Schwarzbier, Cream Ale
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
Re: Mead 101
Do I just sprinkle it into the must? Would it be another full dose?
In the Fridge/On Tap: English Bitter, Schwarzbier, Cream Ale
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
-
andrewmaixner
- Posts: 691
- Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:26 am
Re: Mead 101
As far as the addition method, dissolve it in clean water first. Google ""mead explosion accident"" with quotes, it's the rapid nucleation of the dissolved CO2 resulting in a huge foam-updaryl wrote:Do I just sprinkle it into the must? Would it be another full dose?
Re: Mead 101
http://www.grapestompers.com/articles/s ... tation.htm
Treatment of Stuck Fermentations
And here's what to do if you get stuck... and remember - always start with the simplest things first. Resist the urge to add yeast or additives until you've tried the easy things.
Adjust the temperature of your wine. In most cases we've seen, simply warming your wine to 70-75° F for a couple of days will get the ball rolling.
Rouse the yeast by swishing or stirring the lees (trub) - sometimes moving the yeast around in the wine will get fermentation going again.
WARNING: Although it may be tempting, don't add vitamins (yeast nutrient) during stuck fermentations. Leftover vitamins can stimulate spoilage microbes. Only add a yeast nutrient before or as you pitch your yeast. If you want to add a yeast energizer at this point (which is not the same thing as yeast nutrient), that's OK. Simply go to the local drug store and ask the pharmacist for some Thiamin HCL (thiamin hydrochloride). Add 25 mg. per gallon of wine and mix well.
Remove the old yeast by racking the wine, then re-inoculate with fresh yeast, preferably a killer strain like Lalvin EC-1118 or Red Star Premier Cuvee. In a pinch, you could even use a Red Star Champagne yeast. We want to get rid of the old yeast because yeast cells seem able to detect the presence of other dying cells, and are more likely to get "lazy" themselves.
If you detect there is a nitrogen deficiency (less than 200 mg/L fermentable nitrogen), addition of DAP (diammonium phosphate dibasic - commonly known in the winemaking industry as Fermaid*) is called for.
If none of the above seem to help restart your fermentation within a couple or three days, it's time to bring in the heavy hitters:
Make a yeast starter by pulling off approximately 1/2 gallon of must, and add 1.5 to 2 teaspoons of yeast energizer (thiamin HCL) and 1 packet of "killer" or champagne yeast. Mix well, cover loosely and place in a warm spot. Once you have a vigorous fermentation you can add it back to the original must. OR...
Make a different kind of starter: use about a 1/2 cup of warm water, dissolve 1 teaspoon of sugar in the water, add some orange juice to this mix, make sure the temperature is about 90° F, before adding a packet of Red Star Premier Cuvee or Lalvin EC-1118 yeast to this mixture. Wait until it really gets working. Take about a gallon of your must and warm it up to about 68° to 70° F. Now add the yeast starter to the gallon of must, as it starts to work and gets going, SLOWLY add small portions of the stuck fermentation to that which is working. You should not add more than a quart, make sure the temperature of that which you are adding is at least 70° F. As the volume of the working must gets larger, you can add larger portions to the fermentation. Make sure the temperature is at least 70° F before you add it.
Using one of these methods should help get your fermentation restarted.
Treatment of Stuck Fermentations
And here's what to do if you get stuck... and remember - always start with the simplest things first. Resist the urge to add yeast or additives until you've tried the easy things.
Adjust the temperature of your wine. In most cases we've seen, simply warming your wine to 70-75° F for a couple of days will get the ball rolling.
Rouse the yeast by swishing or stirring the lees (trub) - sometimes moving the yeast around in the wine will get fermentation going again.
WARNING: Although it may be tempting, don't add vitamins (yeast nutrient) during stuck fermentations. Leftover vitamins can stimulate spoilage microbes. Only add a yeast nutrient before or as you pitch your yeast. If you want to add a yeast energizer at this point (which is not the same thing as yeast nutrient), that's OK. Simply go to the local drug store and ask the pharmacist for some Thiamin HCL (thiamin hydrochloride). Add 25 mg. per gallon of wine and mix well.
Remove the old yeast by racking the wine, then re-inoculate with fresh yeast, preferably a killer strain like Lalvin EC-1118 or Red Star Premier Cuvee. In a pinch, you could even use a Red Star Champagne yeast. We want to get rid of the old yeast because yeast cells seem able to detect the presence of other dying cells, and are more likely to get "lazy" themselves.
If you detect there is a nitrogen deficiency (less than 200 mg/L fermentable nitrogen), addition of DAP (diammonium phosphate dibasic - commonly known in the winemaking industry as Fermaid*) is called for.
If none of the above seem to help restart your fermentation within a couple or three days, it's time to bring in the heavy hitters:
Make a yeast starter by pulling off approximately 1/2 gallon of must, and add 1.5 to 2 teaspoons of yeast energizer (thiamin HCL) and 1 packet of "killer" or champagne yeast. Mix well, cover loosely and place in a warm spot. Once you have a vigorous fermentation you can add it back to the original must. OR...
Make a different kind of starter: use about a 1/2 cup of warm water, dissolve 1 teaspoon of sugar in the water, add some orange juice to this mix, make sure the temperature is about 90° F, before adding a packet of Red Star Premier Cuvee or Lalvin EC-1118 yeast to this mixture. Wait until it really gets working. Take about a gallon of your must and warm it up to about 68° to 70° F. Now add the yeast starter to the gallon of must, as it starts to work and gets going, SLOWLY add small portions of the stuck fermentation to that which is working. You should not add more than a quart, make sure the temperature of that which you are adding is at least 70° F. As the volume of the working must gets larger, you can add larger portions to the fermentation. Make sure the temperature is at least 70° F before you add it.
Using one of these methods should help get your fermentation restarted.
Pat McCusker
Re: Mead 101
I don't exactly follow the recommendations when I make a wine yeast starter for mead.
I put 4 oz honey and 16 oz of water into a mason jar; stir it up good; then nuke it in the microwave until it is about 95 degrees. I then sprinkle (dump) the dry yeast into the warm wort. After about half an hour it will be completely rehydrated and I usually start to see some foam. I stir it up and let is sit for another hour or so (it should be quite active by then). Then I stir it again and pitch into my wort. I typically see activity in the airlock within a couple of hours.
Pitch the whole package. It's cheap.
I put 4 oz honey and 16 oz of water into a mason jar; stir it up good; then nuke it in the microwave until it is about 95 degrees. I then sprinkle (dump) the dry yeast into the warm wort. After about half an hour it will be completely rehydrated and I usually start to see some foam. I stir it up and let is sit for another hour or so (it should be quite active by then). Then I stir it again and pitch into my wort. I typically see activity in the airlock within a couple of hours.
Pitch the whole package. It's cheap.
Last edited by wyzzyrdd on Mon Jun 19, 2017 11:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
Pat McCusker
Re: Mead 101
Racking off the old lees is probably a good idea. Racking almost always stimulates fermentation. Product that has no activity in the airlock almost always starts to bubble again right after racking.
Pat McCusker
Re: Mead 101
The meads have been racked off the lees for a couple of weeks now.
I have the yeast energizer....do I just sprinkle it in?
I have the yeast energizer....do I just sprinkle it in?
In the Fridge/On Tap: English Bitter, Schwarzbier, Cream Ale
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
Re: Mead 101
Going to rack off of the mango and berry leeds this weekend.
Should have a pretty good indication as to how these meads will taste.
I plan on bottling and submitting one or more to the land of the muddy waters comp later this year.
I hope some of our other beginning mazers will consider doing the same....a warm up to Mad McCuskers Mead Melee.
The other 3 gallon carboys are looking pretty nice...will thief a sample of those as well.
Should have a pretty good indication as to how these meads will taste.
I plan on bottling and submitting one or more to the land of the muddy waters comp later this year.
I hope some of our other beginning mazers will consider doing the same....a warm up to Mad McCuskers Mead Melee.
The other 3 gallon carboys are looking pretty nice...will thief a sample of those as well.
In the Fridge/On Tap: English Bitter, Schwarzbier, Cream Ale
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
-
Schwerkraftbrauer
- Posts: 469
- Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2017 1:40 pm
Re: Mead 101
When is the Mead melee? I Only have a couple bottles of mead (enough for one competition) not sure if ill habe enough time to make more if i enter in the muddy waters comp. also
Re: Mead 101
Bottles will be submitted in March 2018Schwerkraftbrauer wrote:When is the Mead melee? I Only have a couple bottles of mead (enough for one competition) not sure if ill habe enough time to make more if i enter in the muddy waters comp. also
Pat McCusker