daryl wrote:I would take 24'. I am assuming that in these parts, 6' per tap is a good length to use?
I do not mind if the beer pours a little slow....just not all head.
I went with 10-11 feet per line, rolled up and zip tied. No issues, pours great. No reason to save $10 and be frustrated for the next 5 years.
What PSI are you using to push beer?
So for me, according to this calculator, pushing at 14psi I'll be using 12ft of line per tap. Dropping to 12psi puts the line length at 10.11 feet.
As a side, right now there's:
me @ 40ft (60ft left)
Daryl @ 24ft (36ft left)
Karl @ 21ft (15ft left)
Tony @ 10ft (5ft left)
I'll order as soon as I hear back from BIY on whether they can get it in. If they can't, I'll snag it online for the price posted before. Let me know if you want different lengths than posed above. I know they come in 100ft rolls, but I think I can math my way to most length combos
I found these comments with regard to the use of this line....
3/16" is the best size for most beer lines under 9' in length. Ideally, 6' provides the correct restriction for serving beer in the 8-14 psi range.
Technical Specifications: 3/16" line provides 2.2 lbs of restriction per foot. Ideally pounds of resistance should equal pounds of applied pressure. 3/16" line holds 1/6 of an ounce per foot. PVC Free. 7/16" OD
I found 6-feet to be cited in several postings on other forums.
I am sure some of the long-time keggers in the club will chime in with the voice of experience.
In the Fridge/On Tap: English Bitter, Schwarzbier, Cream Ale
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
daryl wrote:I would take 24'. I am assuming that in these parts, 6' per tap is a good length to use?
I do not mind if the beer pours a little slow....just not all head.
I went with 10-11 feet per line, rolled up and zip tied. No issues, pours great. No reason to save $10 and be frustrated for the next 5 years.
What PSI are you using to push beer?
Was using 10PSI at 3C. Recently raised it to 8C.
Having longer lines within reason just gives you more flexibility to adjust pressure and temperature without running into issues. (If you ever want more foam than it's giving you, just pour into the center a little instead of down the side.)
I have been using 5-6 ft. silver barrier lines with no issues for a few years now. I set the regulator at 10-11 psi, regular refrigerator temp and works great. My lines are also cold all the way to the tap. An unchilled tower will cause foaming. If you make your lines too long you will have to push at higher psi and will have higher carbonation levels in your keg. Lots of charts on the internet for temperature/CO2 pressure to achieve proper carbonation.
If you get the glass lined stuff with the push in fitting you need about 15'. That stuff has much less resistance.
Matt Franklin
Slappy Brewing North
On Tap:
American IPA
Strata Hazy IPA
Dr. Lee Orval
American Strong Ale
Friend of the Devil Belgian Golden Strong
Imperial Stout
I think one issue I have with my keezer is temp gradient.
My controller shows about 37 degrees F, but that is measured from the top of the housing that encloses the compressor. The temp where the beer lines are coiled (about the same height as the collar, on top of the kegs) is higher.
I am thinking that I need a small fan to move cold air from the bottom of the keezer to the top. And, I need to replace my beer lines...I think they are older and have not be maintained properly.
In the Fridge/On Tap: English Bitter, Schwarzbier, Cream Ale
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
daryl wrote:I think one issue I have with my keezer is temp gradient.
My controller shows about 37 degrees F, but that is measured from the top of the housing that encloses the compressor. The temp where the beer lines are coiled (about the same height as the collar, on top of the kegs) is higher.
I am thinking that I need a small fan to move cold air from the bottom of the keezer to the top. And, I need to replace my beer lines...I think they are older and have not be maintained properly.
Daryl, I am new to kegging so take it for what it's worth, but from what I tried on my own keezer is you actually want the air to blow from the top down. By forcing warm air to bottom it'll Force the cold air to the top creating conduction, also by forcing warm air down you will eliminate condensation than vice versa. All the forums I have looked at and things I've read about building keezer's and putting fans in them have said this. I did try it in reverse pulling cold air from the bottom to the top and to my surprise the temperature variance was not only greater, but also it seemed like my compressor had to run more and cycle more to keep a constant temp. Right now I have a 3 inch muffin fan I found off Amazon with 3 inch PVC ductwork, it sucks air from around my shanks pulls it across and then down to the opposite side of the keezer, and my temperature variances only about 5 degrees from the shanks to the bottom where the probe is.
daryl wrote:I think one issue I have with my keezer is temp gradient.
My controller shows about 37 degrees F, but that is measured from the top of the housing that encloses the compressor. The temp where the beer lines are coiled (about the same height as the collar, on top of the kegs) is higher.
I am thinking that I need a small fan to move cold air from the bottom of the keezer to the top. And, I need to replace my beer lines...I think they are older and have not be maintained properly.
Move the probe to the same height as your beer lines.
The picture is showing the air inlet of your system. And that pipe extends down to the bottom of your keezer, correct?
Schwerkraftbrauer wrote:Darryl
daryl wrote:I think one issue I have with my keezer is temp gradient.
My controller shows about 37 degrees F, but that is measured from the top of the housing that encloses the compressor. The temp where the beer lines are coiled (about the same height as the collar, on top of the kegs) is higher.
I am thinking that I need a small fan to move cold air from the bottom of the keezer to the top. And, I need to replace my beer lines...I think they are older and have not be maintained properly.
Daryl, I am new to kegging so take it for what it's worth, but from what I tried on my own keezer is you actually want the air to blow from the top down. By forcing warm air to bottom it'll Force the cold air to the top creating conduction, also by forcing warm air down you will eliminate condensation than vice versa. All the forums I have looked at and things I've read about building keezer's and putting fans in them have said this. I did try it in reverse pulling cold air from the bottom to the top and to my surprise the temperature variance was not only greater, but also it seemed like my compressor had to run more and cycle more to keep a constant temp. Right now I have a 3 inch muffin fan I found off Amazon with 3 inch PVC ductwork, it sucks air from around my shanks pulls it across and then down to the opposite side of the keezer, and my temperature variances only about 5 degrees from the shanks to the bottom where the probe is.
In the Fridge/On Tap: English Bitter, Schwarzbier, Cream Ale
In the keg: Wheat Beer, Russian Imperial Stout
In the bucket:
In the queue: Irish Red, American IPA
Karl, based upon the above discussion, I'll cut my order back to 6ft, as I only need one more tap connection to make up.
A Mighty Wind's A Brewing
“Life is short - break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile” ― Mae West
[quote="daryl"]The picture is showing the air inlet of your system. And that pipe extends down to the bottom of your keezer, correct?
[quote="Schwerkraftbrauer"]Darryl[quote="daryl"]
Yes, essentially making it an inline fan and I just drilled half inch holes in the bottom of the PVC at the bottom of the keezer to blow air in all directions not just one port.
jjpeanasky wrote:
So for me, according to this calculator, pushing at 14psi I'll be using 12ft of line per tap. Dropping to 12psi puts the line length at 10.11 feet.
As a side, right now there's:
me @ 40ft (60ft left)
Daryl @ 24ft (36ft left)
Karl @ 21ft (15ft left)
Tony @ 10ft (5ft left)
I'll order as soon as I hear back from BIY on whether they can get it in. If they can't, I'll snag it online for the price posted before. Let me know if you want different lengths than posed above. I know they come in 100ft rolls, but I think I can math my way to most length combos
12ft is wayyy toooo long. What are you using for volumes of co2 and what is your dispensing temperature? I've done a lot of draft installs in my day and we never used 12ft even when using a direct draw, blender box high pressure setup. 5ft @10-12psi at 38* will give you what you need.
daryl wrote:I found these comments with regard to the use of this line....
3/16" is the best size for most beer lines under 9' in length. Ideally, 6' provides the correct restriction for serving beer in the 8-14 psi range.
Technical Specifications: 3/16" line provides 2.2 lbs of restriction per foot. Ideally pounds of resistance should equal pounds of applied pressure. 3/16" line holds 1/6 of an ounce per foot. PVC Free. 7/16" OD
I found 6-feet to be cited in several postings on other forums.
I am sure some of the long-time keggers in the club will chime in with the voice of experience.
Need to check with the manufacturer. Most 3/16" line will be 3lbs of resistance per foot.
jjpeanasky wrote:
So for me, according to this calculator, pushing at 14psi I'll be using 12ft of line per tap. Dropping to 12psi puts the line length at 10.11 feet.
As a side, right now there's:
me @ 40ft (60ft left)
Daryl @ 24ft (36ft left)
Karl @ 21ft (15ft left)
Tony @ 10ft (5ft left)
I'll order as soon as I hear back from BIY on whether they can get it in. If they can't, I'll snag it online for the price posted before. Let me know if you want different lengths than posed above. I know they come in 100ft rolls, but I think I can math my way to most length combos
12ft is wayyy toooo long. What are you using for volumes of co2 and what is your dispensing temperature? I've done a lot of draft installs in my day and we never used 12ft even when using a direct draw, blender box high pressure setup. 5ft @10-12psi at 38* will give you what you need.
That calculator uses a 10 seconds per pint to factor in the line resistance. 14psi input into there gives the 12ft of line.
Also, that line is listed at 2.2 lbs/ft
- Josh Peanasky
I got a reply from BIY, they're able to get it. Listed price is $129.99 + tax per roll. I put in an order for a 100ft roll. I'll get a hold of everyone once it comes it.
Joel (@Schwerkraftbrauer), if anybody adjusts orders, you're first on the list to get the remainder.
