Cedar Rapids Brewing Society

Anyone that owns or plans to own a pump should watch this video. My used March has always made a lot of squealing off and on. Compare the thrust bushings if the new center inlet I have yet to use ummmmm my bushings are worn to non existence. [emoji15] I'll post a pic from my phone. Also the same guy I this clip sells a slick cam lock for the 3/4" inlet so a reducer isn't needed. One piece, less threads

http://youtu.be/IdwfzxblL_U





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Old head. No idea on age or maintenance by the previous owner. Minimal I'd guess




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Also, don't forget to oil it with some 3 in 1 a couple times a year. I'll step off my soapbox now [emoji6]


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And here is a new pump I have never seen before from Williams Brewing for $69.99! Same kind principal as the March and Chugger but way cheaper.
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/MARK-II- ... P4028.aspx

Matt F wrote:I have been brewing on a two tier setup with a single pump for a long time. I started doing 3-tier gravity until I could get a pump. They are really awesome to have. They are all pretty familiar so look for a deal. I have had mine since 2009. Used my Brew buddies before that starting in 2004. His is still running strong too.

Matt - Do you use three vessels? Or does your HLT double as you boiler?

I've also decided also that I'm tired of lifting stuff, and probably will go electric -- just trying to decide if I want to go with:

1) monolithic BIAB w/ re-circulation
or

2) 2-vessel recirculating (like "brutus 20" concept), giveing the option of throwing a HLT cooler up above if I ever want to try 3-vessel style.

daryl wrote:

Matt F wrote:Matt - Do you use three vessels? Or does your HLT double as you boiler?

Matt uses 3 vessels

Matt F wrote:And here is a new pump I have never seen before from Williams Brewing for $69.99! Same kind principal as the March and Chugger but way cheaper.
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/MARK-II- ... P4028.aspx

Damn! That's a bargain

And it looks like it might be splash resistant too. No cooling vents or fan.

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interesting, the impeller is different than the march/ugger line:


One of the two reviews states that the ploy head is very brittle, and he broke it by hand tightening the fixtures before even using it. So add a steel head on right away, and it's $100

People complain about the poly head on their March/Chugger too. Mine is original and I have had no issues. If trying to save money, you could start with the $70 investment and upgrade later if necessary. I do want to upgrade to a center inlet S/S just because though. Stainless steel gets me excited. You must be a homebrewer if the word Tri-Clamp makes you happy.

daryl wrote:Matt - Do you use three vessels? Or does your HLT double as you boiler?

Like Chris said, three vessels. My original all grain set up was all gravity using a counter top and cinder blocks in my garage. Then a friend welded me a stand for beers and I added a pump to go 2-tier. The concept was similar to a More Beer system with the mash tun using gravity to the kettle and pump moving sparge water. When I moved inside the distance from mashtun to ceiling was too close so I moved the HLT up top and mashtun to an old retired turkey fryer burner. I just use the stand, burner is out of commission. I had one natural gas burner under my boil kettle and another under my HLT. I was able to use my whirlpool immersion chiller as a HERMS coil in my HLT. Next step was adding a water heater element (save yourself some trouble and get ALL stainless which is now available) which was really easy as I run it at 120V with a standard Johnson controller I was using for my fermenting fridge. Slow and steady build over many years. For a long time I had planned to upgrade to 240V as I have a 100 amp subpanel in my brewery already. I just have not been motivated as the 120V does fine and if I need to step up temps I just kick on the burner and boom it is there. The electric preheats all the brewing water for a brew day and maintains temps. The burner raises temps during brew day. To brew, I fill my mashtun with the proper amount of water and recirculate through my HERMS coil to heat to strike temp. HLT is set at proper temp to do this. Everything plugs in to a timer. When I get home from work, pump is running, mashtun is filled with water and ready to mash in, HLT is ready for maintaing/raising mashtemp. I really like how my system brews. Works great unless you try to squeeze 40 lbs. of grain in your keggle mashtun to make an imperial stout. Then you get a stuck mash. Tim and Brian were witnesses. My system works best with a 1.5 qts/lbs. water to grain ratio. Lot of fluid hung up in the HERMS coil and tubing. Older picture but only changes would be mounting pump to the brew stand and the floor has been epoxy sealed. That is a must do cheap upgrade if you have a dedicated brew space with a concrete floor.

If you are looking for kettles, these are another nice option. Induction ready too.
http://www.anvilbrewing.com/category-s/100.htm

I know I'm reviving a old thread, but did anyone jump on the Mark II pump? I'm considering upgrading my P-38i pump (but have no real reason to) and $78 shipped is tempting on the plastic one (and even adding in $30 for the SS head is tempting). I like the impeller design and the pumps get ok reviews in Australia.

Just wondering if anyone decided to try one.

Fred

I personally would pay $100 for a chugger and not wonder if I will like it or not.

I dunno. I think I like the hex head design and the impeller design on the Aussie pump better. The Chugger is rated a little more flow though. For $105 (all shipped) I can get a plastic Chugger, $152 for a stainless center inlet.. for $78 I can get a plastic Keg King or for $107 I can get the stainless one with a plastic backup head. $50 is $50...the difference when going to stainless is maybe worth it.

I did decide to e-bay some stainless ball quick disconnects for my little p38i pump. I think it will make it easier to clean and prime... (they are a bit of a PITA to prime). It's been good enough for what I am using it for (recirculating mash on the eBIAB to keep the temperature from stratifying and in theory "fly sparging" in the bag) but I am going to try to pump though a homemade counterflow I built and recirculate until I get to say 80-90F (Then drain into the fermentor though the chiller to get to probably 50s with my well water) instead of using the immersion chiller in my rig. I am getting tired of having to whirlpool with a spoon, and since adding the element it doesn't physically fit well-- I will just start recirculating through the counterflow instead. Having a better pump at that point is probably a good idea. At the very least I'm going to have to start using hop bags as the bazooka always gets plugged up as it is when draining. Still concerned with kettle break and the little pump even with the hops contained.

The setup is quite usable now.. but it ALWAYS can be better.

Fred