Cedar Rapids Brewing Society

Thank you for explaining that. I was thinking that seemed like an incredibly high amount of packages! So I had the temperature at 62 (still trying to figure out the unmarked fridge dial) hoping that the higher temperature would kick start the yeast, and this morning when I checked, they were both fermenting. The Wyeast is going like a bat out of hell with the kruzen getting thicker. The other yeast is just a nice thin layer of bubbles. I have turned down the knob slightly below the "1" setting, and will be marking what temperature that gets me. I guess I just needed patience... as long as some other yeast hasn't gotten in there... I don't think an Oktoberfest lambic sounds good. Guess I will find out.

Sounds like they're up and fermenting. And, you're likely safe from infections.

Now the goal is to control temperature to get a clean fermentation to the appropriate SG and get into lagering. Sounds like you're already ahead of the game here.

Have a home brew.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

As long As you practice good sanitation you should be all good from infection. I often transfer wort and let sit in my conical over night. Then I drop the turn and pitch yeast in the morning.

I am having difficulty getting the temperature under control. The fridge seems to have wild variances. A slight turn of the knob takes it from 44* to 58*. The target is 52*.

I think that Matt meant "drop the trub" but the spelling checker got him.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

The mechanical thermostats on fridges are notoriously inconsistent.

But, the temperature of the beer changes slowly even if the air temperature swings quickly.

You can try to get it dialed in with patience. But, you'll probably have better luck setting the fridge to a lower temperature and the using a fermwrap or brewbelt with a thermostat with a probe that's in the beer.

Just don't worry too much; the beer changes temperature slowly and as long as you keep checking it you should be able to keep it in a good temperature range.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Inkbird temp controller would help you out a bunch for around $30.

Matt F wrote:Inkbird temp controller would help you out a bunch for around $30.

I spent a few more bucks on mine so that it would come with two probes, one is a stub and the other is long enough to be inserted into a carboy (with the appropriate bung or cover).

Mine works great. And it is simple to use....the dual control (one for heat and one for cold) is worth it too.

I hesitated to recommend that because many modern fridges don't deal well with temperature control by interrupting the power. But, if you have a old fridge with a piston compressor and an on-off thermostat, by all means, try an external thermostat.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

karl wrote:I hesitated to recommend that because many modern fridges don't deal well with temperature control by interrupting the power. But, if you have a old fridge with a piston compressor and an on-off thermostat, by all means, try an external thermostat.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I wasn't aware of that. Do you have any idea as to why? Do you know if that is also applicable to modern freezers?

I have an extra home-built temperature controller that I don't use, if you are interested.
similar to this, but temp/lights in front and plugs in the back: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/ ... ontroller/

The newer fridges use a screw compressor with an electronic control driver. This allows better efficiency. From what I've read, they are not designed for the transients induced by frequent power cycling which can result in added mechanical wear on the compressor and some increased likelihood of electrical burnout when power is suddenly removed.

AFAIK, most deep freezers still use traditional on-off thermostats and mechanical contactors to engage the compressor. You're probably ok there.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

How much would you like for it? The fridge I am using was manufactured 11-03 (although I don't think it was ever really used. It looks new. When we bought out first home last June, there were 2 deep freezers and this fridge. I didn't want to know). How do I find out if this will work for my type?

Sounds like that fridge was "free" (came with the house), so what do you have to lose if you just go for it and try it? Just sayin'

karl wrote:The newer fridges use a screw compressor with an electronic control driver. This allows better efficiency. From what I've read, they are not designed for the transients induced by frequent power cycling which can result in added mechanical wear on the compressor and some increased likelihood of electrical burnout when power is suddenly removed.

AFAIK, most deep freezers still use traditional on-off thermostats and mechanical contactors to engage the compressor. You're probably ok there.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

True, but most modern controllers can be set up with a compressor delay, preventing the compressor from starting up "x" minutes after last shutdown. Can also increase the dead band for longer run cycles. Not as tight control, but probably better on the machine.

- Josh Peanasky