Cedar Rapids Brewing Society

I'm finally putting together some real taps for my keg freezer. For those of you that have built kegerators/keezers, what shanks did you use? I'm trying to decide between stainless steel and chrome-plated brass. I'm also not sure if I should be using 1/4" or 3/16" bores.

I went with these:

http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/s ... roduct=150

They are 1/4 bore and for my keezer they are overkill, but I figured it allows me flexibility if I decide to put them into something else. When I get you the grain I can show them to you so you can look.

I like the idea of stainless for the worry free operation. Not to say the chrome and brass plated are something to worry about. I just want them to last a long time and don't intend on buying them again.

I also got the 525SS faucets.

i also went with stainless. I also second the perlick faucets. i have had, chrome, regular type faucets, once i got the pearlicks, i wondered why i wasted time with the others. I went with the 3/16 bore. it matches all my hoses and everything else for my keg fridge. I also have short runs for all my hosing, just 5 feet. I think with the 1/4 you might need a longer hose for back pressure possibley, to prevent foaming. maybey there is someone with more experiance that could speak to this.

I went with this: http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=195, but upgraded to a 4-way manifold and 525SS faucets. I wanted an extra gas connection so I could easily hook up my beer gun, and so I could expand to 4 taps if I want to. The kits come per-assembled which is nice. The beer lines are the right length and I never have problems with foaming.


On 04/06/12 08:44, bf514921 wrote:

i also went with stainless. I also second the perlick faucets. i have had, chrome, regular type faucets, once i got the pearlicks, i wondered why i wasted time with the others. I went with the 3/16 bore. it matches all my hoses and everything else for my keg fridge. I also have short runs for all my hosing, just 5 feet. I think with the 1/4 you might need a longer hose for back pressure possibley, to prevent foaming. maybey there is someone with more experiance that could speak to this.



Brandon Franklin

Post generated using Mail2Forum (http://www.mail2forum.com)

Stainless 3/16 with perlicks here. A little search the web and you can find calculators for tubing length. I used the NB 3/16 thick wall tubing with a single regulator and a 4way manifold. I have a keezer and can get 6 kegs with a 20# tank. 3 taps through the front edge of the lid. I will post pics.


Paul

pics can be found here:

http://rieff.smugmug.com/Other/Brewing/

Threw in a few others too. The coors light you spot is what I have to drink when I severely underpitch the yeast and have to dump the beer.

bf514921 wrote:i also went with stainless. I also second the perlick faucets. i have had, chrome, regular type faucets, once i got the pearlicks, i wondered why i wasted time with the others. I went with the 3/16 bore. it matches all my hoses and everything else for my keg fridge. I also have short runs for all my hosing, just 5 feet. I think with the 1/4 you might need a longer hose for back pressure possibley, to prevent foaming. maybey there is someone with more experiance that could speak to this.

Where did you find stainless steel shanks with a 3/16" bore?

got it wrong,
i thought i had 3/16 all the way through, i am off today, working on my basement, looking at my taps. . all the hosing is 3/16 I.D. i thought i had gotten all 3/16 throughtout, i guess i should not have warhammer coffee milk porters for breakfast anymore. i checked my previous orders. all hose beverage hose is 3/16, the bore on the shanks is from northern brewer and not listed for bore size. The tail pieces are 1/4. all the gase line is 5/16, and the taps are pearlicks.my beers lines are 5 ft and 6ft long, they may have started life as a cobra tap.

Chrome-plated brass may give off-flavors and will harbor more bacteria than SS (brass is more porous). This will happen when the chrome wears away. Usually takes a few years of heavy use. May depend on beers poured as well.

I imagine most bars/restaurants go for brass because either: they don't know or don't care about beer quality or when they are buying a lot of equipment, the price will mount quite quickly.

Dork out on this...

http://www.brewersassociation.org/attac ... assTNB.pdf
(not sure if this link is going to work...just search the BA website if you want the article)

And...I find the BA draught quality manual to be a good reference for everything involved in pouring the perfect pint.

http://www.draughtquality.org/w/page/18182201/FrontPage

I had the brass ones originally because of budget issues (have four taps), but they eventually started turning black, and became harder to clean. So I went and changed them out to SS as well as upgraded to the Forward seal faucets. I’ve only had the SS shanks for 2 years now so I don’t know the long term longevity, I had my brass shanks for almost 11 years (I’ve been pouring keg brew for over a decade) so they seemed to last awhile, but I hope the SS to last a life time. The biggest upgrade though was the forward seal faucets, perlick is a big one, I got the Shiron.. and absolutely love them! Wish I did that years ago.. they stay cleaner, they don’t stick, and they seal better for occasional use pourers like myself… as well as they look sleeker.








From: quinton [mailto:brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org]
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2012 12:11 PM
To: brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org
Subject: Re: Shank question


Chrome-plated brass may give off-flavors and will harbor more bacteria than SS (brass is more porous). This will happen when the chrome wears away. Usually takes a few years of heavy use. May depend on beers poured as well.

I imagine most bars/restaurants go for brass because either: they don't know or don't care about beer quality or when they are buying a lot of equipment, the price will mount quite quickly.

Dork out on this...

www.brewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/.../StainlessVsBrassTNB.pdf

And...I find the BA draught quality manual to be a good reference for everything involved in pouring the perfect pint.

http://www.draughtquality.org/w/page/18182201/FrontPage

Post generated using Mail2Forum (http://www.mail2forum.com)

Thanks everybody for the info! I went ahead and purchased 4 of the stainless steel shanks from Farmhouse Brewing supplies. I had previously picked up some Perlick SS faucets.

Unrelated note -- I picked up 100 packs of dip tube and post o-rings from McMaster Carr this week. If you need any, let me know. For a point of reference, I think they cost $3 for each pack of 100.

I think I got the 3/16 shanks 3 years ago from midwest supplies. I looked and I don't see them anymore. I know at the time the SS ones only came in one length....can't remember how long they are. Been a while since I had it apart. 3" sounds right...way longer than I needed but that's the only length they came in. I have found the first couple oz is foamy cuz my shanks and tubing are so close to the top of the lid, but the rest pours great. If memory is correct I have 6' of 3/16" thick wall bev tubing and I generally run 14 psi. Pour time is right on. Somewhere online it is published that a 60oz pitcher should take X seconds to fill if the pressure and tube length is correct. I used the recommended and was right on at install. Side note: built a wheeled brew stand for the electric today. Will be using fire a few more times but the height is were electric needs to be. I think I will be doing bottom drains with the keggles. It is amazing how difficult it is to square up crappy menards lumber. Its not perfect but will work and is sturdy. Anyone know of any downsides of using a PVC electrical box to house the guts and controls...PIDs SSRs and such for an electric system?PaulFrom: "DrPaulsen" <brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org>
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 16:14:01 -0500
To: <brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org>
ReplyTo: brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org
Subject: Re: Shank question

Thanks everybody for the info! I went ahead and purchased 4 of the stainless steel shanks from Farmhouse Brewing supplies. I had previously picked up some Perlick SS faucets. Unrelated note -- I picked up 100 packs of dip tube and post o-rings from McMaster Carr this week. If you need any, let me know. For a point of reference, I think they cost $3 for each pack of 100.
-------------------- m2f -------------------- Sent using Mail2Forum (http://www.mail2forum.com). Read this topic online here: http://www.crbeernuts.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=18447#18447 -------------------- m2f --------------------

Post generated using Mail2Forum (http://www.mail2forum.com)

When I first saw this I thought someone I knew just got put in prison.

Glad you went stainless. Forward sealing facuets are absolutely necessary. Stainless costs more but lasts forever. My stainless shanks are 8+ years old and look new.

prieff wrote: Side note: built a wheeled brew stand for the electric today. Will be using fire a few more times but the height is were electric needs to be. I think I will be doing bottom drains with the keggles. It is amazing how difficult it is to square up crappy menards lumber. Its not perfect but will work and is sturdy. Anyone know of any downsides of using a PVC electrical box to house the guts and controls...PIDs SSRs and such for an electric system?

PVC box like the gray kind you get from menards? Downside is that if you don't cool it, you learn the hard way your PID controllers cold junction in on the inside of your warmed up box, and your SSRs get warm. But i used it for mine. works ok but is by no means a wet proof box.

I plan on using a computer fan for ventilation and mounting the SSR heat sinks through the box. What is this "cold junction" of which you speak? My intent is not waterproofness, but seems easier to work with than the giant metal box I salvaged from work. My only desire is contain any flash or arc that hopefully does not occur and maybe provide some protection against the errant splash or raindrop. You gonna be in amana this morning?From: "bf514921" <brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org>
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 09:25:12 -0500
To: <brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org>
ReplyTo: brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org
Subject: Re: Shank question

prieff wrote: Side note: built a wheeled brew stand for the electric today. Will be using fire a few more times but the height is were electric needs to be. I think I will be doing bottom drains with the keggles. It is amazing how difficult it is to square up crappy menards lumber. Its not perfect but will work and is sturdy. Anyone know of any downsides of using a PVC electrical box to house the guts and controls...PIDs SSRs and such for an electric system? PVC box like the gray kind you get from menards? Downside is that if you don't cool it, you learn the hard way your PID controllers cold junction in on the inside of your warmed up box, and your SSRs get warm. But i used it for mine. works ok but is by no means a wet proof box.
Brandon Franklin
-------------------- m2f -------------------- Sent using Mail2Forum (http://www.mail2forum.com). Read this topic online here: http://www.crbeernuts.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=18460#18460 -------------------- m2f --------------------

Post generated using Mail2Forum (http://www.mail2forum.com)

no won'y be in amana. cold juntion is the way the pid does some coparison for ambient temperature, if you have a computer fan you should be all good, thats what i did with mine, mounted the heat sinks, if all your liking for is arc contianment i think it would work just fine, my electric is simple, couple of ssrs, one pid, 3 way toggle switch on the output, and some 30 amp 240 light swtiched to make sure the electricity is physically cut to each element.