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Brew stand opinions

Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 2:53 pm
by Bones
Welded mild steel or bolt together strut? I have welder and chop saw access.

I like the strut for simplicity and ease of changes.

Plan is to copy a brewtus 10 for the most part with changes. It will be propane and the ability to be portable.

I have 3 torch, turkey fryer burners that I will use if I can, otherwise banjo's will get purchased.

Already have the outfitted keggles and 2 March 815 pumps 8) Automation will come down the road once I get used to this

Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:23 pm
by karl
I have a three tier system (four if you count the floor) built from 1" square steel tube. I had it welded up for me at a classic car repair shop. It's really sturdy but is entirely fixed in configuration. But, that said, I have clamped and/or bolted various things to it. Having done this once, I would say I was fairly successful, but there are some changes I would make. That said, it's still really functional and does what I need.

Homebrewing is an ever evolving process as you get interested in trying new techniques. Given that, I'd recommend the Uni-strut method. You can reconfigure things or entirely redesign your brewery and reuse the parts. Or expand as necessary.

Just my 2 cents.

Karl

unistrut or welded steel

Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 10:07 pm
by mjmarsha
My vote would be for welded steel unless you can get a really good price on unistrut. I doubt you'll find strut cheaper than angle iron (especially if you go to Marion Iron). However you said you have "access to" a welder and saw... not sure how much that access costs you so YMMV.

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 5:14 am
by Bones
Marion Iron sells used rusty steel no? I know, it's steel, wire wheel it, weld it and paint. I was going to call Storm Steel to get a price and I'll call Marion Iron also to see. They are right down the road from me.

My next door neighbor and a best friend both have chop saws and welders so it shouldn't be too difficult to melt some metal.

steel

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 10:22 am
by mjmarsha
Yeah, Marion iron will sell surplus steel that is behind their shop. The surplus is usually new steel or lightly used. Its all good stuff. I doubt they will know what they have in surplus if you call them.. its easier to just stop by and take a look. Even if they dont have what you want in surplus its likely cheaper to go new steel versus strut, but ymmv.

Re: steel

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 10:25 am
by Bones
mjmarsha wrote:Yeah, Marion iron will sell surplus steel that is behind their shop. The surplus is usually new steel or lightly used. Its all good stuff. I doubt they will know what they have in surplus if you call them.. its easier to just stop by and take a look. Even if they dont have what you want in surplus its likely cheaper to go new steel versus strut, but ymmv.
Yeah unless you get a hook up, I think strut adds up fast.

I could care less if it's used steel. I'm not building art here :lol: I will stop by tomorrow while running errands. Need to get a rough idea on footage. Like go with a mixture 1.5" square and angle.

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:36 pm
by Bones
$1.50/foot roughly. Need to finalize my stand in CAD and get a total footage. Need to decide if keggle storage underneath is needed into the design or not. The amount it's gets transported won't be terribly often I'd imagine

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:46 pm
by karl
As far as "finishing"or painting goes, here was my technique. Even though I was using new steel tube from Storm Steel, I deliberately "aged" my material for a number of months while actually working on a car at the shop in question... This deliberate technique had the effect intended: a light coat of surface rust. This was the perfect preparation for a coat of POR-15 paint! (A paint that is specially designed to convert and bond with rust and make a very tough finish)

So, the point is, if you're getting used steel from Marion Iron, just knock off the loose stuff and use POR-15.

Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 10:02 pm
by Bones
I'm too cheap for POR-15. It will get some engine enamel and be good to go.

Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 9:13 am
by Bones
Burners - I need 3

The large BG14 banjo burners?
Image

Medium BG12
Image

Smaller BG10 (torch burners I call them)?
Image

I have 3 torch burners that come on typical turkey fryers and a 5 and 10psi regulator. Would those work in the interim? I do 5 gallon which I'm sure it would work, but would it work for 10 gallon batches?

I use propane and can also get a 30psi regulator also to kick out some more BTU's

Brew stand opinions

Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 10:17 am
by JimPotts
The "Cajun cooker" burners are fine for 10 gal batches.

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Re: Brew stand opinions

Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 10:45 am
by Bones
JimPotts wrote:The "Cajun cooker" burners are fine for 10 gal batches.

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Edited my previous post to display images. So the Cajun Cooker looks close to the BG12 above.

Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 12:04 pm
by JimPotts
I'm talking about the ones you called "torch" burners. The cheap turkey-fryer type. Lots of us have used them for 10 gallon batches.

-Jim

Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 12:25 pm
by Bones
Thanks Jim,

That saves me $100-150

Brew stand opinions

Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 12:59 pm
by whitedj
I do have a KAB6, which has a BG14 I believe.  Its quiet and quick [after a couple modifications to the stand for a keg vs a flat bottom pot].   I seem to remember bringing 13 gallons from sparge to boil in ~20-25 minute time frame.   I think it's worth the investment for the BK if you have the budget, likely overkill on the HLT.   Although when you crack her all the way open she goes through fuel fast :(


On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 12:25 PM, Bones <brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org (brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org)> wrote:
Thanks Jim,

That saves me $100-150



Chris




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