Cedar Rapids Brewing Society

Has anyone here ever converted a keg to a brew kettle? If so, what tools did you use?

Thanks,
Lee

DrPaulsen wrote:Has anyone here ever converted a keg to a brew kettle? If so, what tools did you use?

Thanks,
Lee

Angle grinder will cut the top out. I had to use a step bit to drill the hole for my drain. I recommend weldless fittings, unless you can weld stainless. If you can weld stainless, you and I need to spend more time together.

My brother-inlaw did mine. If we had enough of an order he would probably do some for a small fee.

Speaking of kegs -> kettles, anyone know of a good source for legal kegs?
-Tom

tompb wrote:My brother-inlaw did mine. If we had enough of an order he would probably do some for a small fee.

Let me just say that Tom's brother does an excellent job and would be well worth the fee that he would charge. He did mine for me and cuts were perfect and smooth, the fittings were welded in nicely. Couldn't have found a nice job if you ordered a new converted kettle keg for $250.00 or what ever they cost now.

For legal kegs try Marion Iron, Alter Steel, or either of the distributors. Sometimes they have some they are pulling out of service. If they get bent by the draw tube they are no good for refill.

I just thought I'd check back in to let everyone know that I successfully cut a hole in the lid of my keg last Friday. A Dremel Tool with reinforced cutting wheels worked very, very well to cut the hole. It helped to fill the keg with water first so I had a continuous supply of coolant (and to catch the bits of hot metal that were fired back into the keg).

The entire process took about 45 minutes (including finish grinding), required 1.5 cutting wheels, and left me with a nice lid (after I attach some fender washers so the lid doesn't fall through the hole).

Next up -- drilling out 5 holes (Thermometer, Bottom Drain, Heater Element, Sight Gauge, and Float Switch).

When you drill the holes use some cuting oil or at least some WD40. I used a 1" for a welded in coupler, I think a 7/8" works for weldless. I'm not sure you want weldless for a heating element. Let me know if you want to talk more about this.

Thanks for the tips. I was planning to try motor oil for a lubricant. If that doesn't work, I'll go buy some cutting oil.

I have a welded nut on the outside of my boil kettle with a silicone o-ring to seal. The recommended size o-ring didn't work at first so I had to try a couple of smaller sizes. I'll probably have to do something similar here. Worst case, I can always apply a little RTV sealant to the outside of the coupler (which I'll probably do anyway, for water-proofing).

Here's an example of someone that built a very similar HLT to what I'm planning (except that I'm not going the HERMS route since I plan to use a combination of direct external electric heating and steam). He used silicone washers to get a better seal, I might do that, too.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-weld ... ld-102464/

I just recieved an old pinlock 15.5 gallon keg. It has a bung hole, with stopper in it, and is a little dented. Thinking about a possible kettle? Or maybe just let it go.

I have the tools to probably cut it, but for the right price I'd certainly have someone with better skills and tools work it over for me.

Paulson, what are you using for a sight guage?

Sounds like it would make a great kettle. Want to go electric? I can help with that.

For the sight gauge, go here:
http://www.greatbargain.net/order/shop1.html

I ordered the $19 version ("3/8 inch with 3/8 tubing").

Having not yet installed it, I can't vouch for it, but I can't imagine what would go wrong with it. The tubing is polycarbonate, which makes some people nervous.

What do people not like about polycarbonate?  Are they afraid it will scratch?  Break from the heat?  Just curious, since I personally don't see anything wrong with it (and obviously you don't either, since you're buying it).

-Jim

On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 9:52 AM, DrPaulsen <brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org (brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org)> wrote:

The tubing is polycarbonate, which makes some people nervous.

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I think over time thr heat starts to make it cloudy. But its much more durable than glass and probably cheaper.

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Some people are concerned about polycarbonate leaching unsafe levels of BP-A (a chemical used to make PC) into water. I can't seem to find any science that actually supports this, but there was enough commotion created recently about it that Nalgene actually stopped making their drinking bottles from the stuff. They claim to believe that PC is perfectly safe and they just made the switch due to public demand. Until I see some real science, though, I'm not giving in to mob rule.

Here's a couple of sites that discuss it (from the "BP-A is safe" angle, obviously):

http://www.bisphenol-a.org/whatsNew/20060505.html
http://www.nalgene-outdoor.com/technical/bpaInfo.html

JimPotts wrote:What do people not like about polycarbonate?  Are they afraid it will scratch?  Break from the heat?  Just curious, since I personally don't see anything wrong with it (and obviously you don't either, since you're buying it).

-Jim

On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 9:52 AM, DrPaulsen <brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org (brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org)> wrote:

The tubing is polycarbonate, which makes some people nervous.

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Ah.  I didn't think about BP-A.  I'm withholding judgment on all BP-A leaching related stuff, until I see some real research.  Then I'll put on my tin-foil hat.

On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 2:14 PM, DrPaulsen <brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org (brew-equipment@crbeernuts.org)> wrote:

Some people are concerned about polycarbonate leaching unsafe levels of BP-A (a chemical used to make PC) into water. I can't seem to find any science that actually supports this, but there was enough commotion created recently about it that Nalgene actually stopped making their drinking bottles from the stuff. They claim to believe that PC is perfectly safe and they just made the switch due to public demand. Until I see some real science, though, I'm not giving in to mob rule.

Here's a couple of sites that discuss it (from the "BP-A is safe" angle, obviously):

http://www.bisphenol-a.org/whatsNew/20060505.html
http://www.nalgene-outdoor.com/technical/bpaInfo.html

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