Cedar Rapids Brewing Society

Hey guys, I posted on the Northern Brewer forum for a little help but I figured I would ask local guys as well.

I have http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/k ... rsion.html

I got it for Christmas from a LOVING relative. I'll be returning the Sankey tap and maybe the regulator as long as shipping isn't to bad to do it. If shipping is ridiculous, ill probably just keep the economy regulator.

Long story short, I need to convert it to a 5 gallon corny keg set-up. When I was at the Nov meeting, some of you guys mentioned the local big suppliers like Grainger and maybe a food equipment supplier.

Before I pull the trigger on Northern Brewer or Midwest Supplies etc., can anything be picked up locally or do you guys have any equipment for sale.

Also, take a look at the link and tell me your opinions on what I should get to complete the setup. It looks like a pretty cheap regulator, but I would be fine with something basic.

Thanks,

Forest

It's a good starter kit. The regulator should be find for now. You can always get a dual gauge later. The parts you need can be had at Rapids Wholesale out by 151 and 13.

http://rapidswholesale.com/

You will need this http://rapidswholesale.com/Merchant2/me ... rewerItems and this http://rapidswholesale.com/Merchant2/me ... rewerItems.

If you stop out and talk to them they can set you up with everything. The only issue may be the balllocks are 1/4 and the kit you have is probably 3/16 or 3/8.

The bev line is probably 3/16, which if you soak in boiling water for a couple of minutes will fit over a 1/4 barb. not sure about the CO2 line. You'll also need a couple of hose clamps. I like the oetiker clamps, but the standard ones at Menards will do the trick, too.
-Tom

TappedOut wrote:The bev line is probably 3/16, which if you soak in boiling water for a couple of minutes will fit over a 1/4 barb. not sure about the CO2 line. You'll also need a couple of hose clamps. I like the oetiker clamps, but the standard ones at Menards will do the trick, too.
-Tom

If you use boiling water, I would only go about 10 seconds. I just use hot tap water, and then about 30 seconds to a minute, and it will loosen up enough to fit.

You can find what you need to convert it at Rapids. I find the prices at Rapids tend to be better than the typical homebrew shop and it is nice they are in town. I would not worry about the dual gauge too much. The other gauge just sits near empty and goes down shortly before you run out. You can live without it. Keep you sanke attachment in case you need it some time. I have one laying around I have used a few times.

It looks like all you need is some 3/16" tubing and quick connects for corny kegs. You will also need the corny kegs. Seems like a few guys were getting them around $16/keg lately plus shipping. Also, get enough tubing so you have about 5 feet of 3/16" beverage out tubing so you can leave your regulator at the proper carbonation level and dispense at the lower psi necessary.

Keggin is cool!

Thanks guys!

-Forest

Shoot, my high pressure gauge is broken. Not only doesn't it work, it is physically broken. You don't need it at all. Any information it gives you is basically useless. You will know soon enough if the tank is empty.

yep, the high pressure gauge on the standard dual-guage regulator is pretty much worthless. You definitely want to have 5-6 ft of 3/16" bev line to drop the pressure for serving. Hot tap water didn't work for me, but I have the thermostat on my hot water turned down pretty low (for safety reasons w/ the small primate running around the house). But yeah, by "a couple of minutes", what I really meant was whatever small fraction of time, that I don't exactly remember, that it took for the line to get soft. The sankey tap is not a bad thing to have around. I like using a barbed swivel nut (http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/k ... l-nut.html) with the 1/4" MFL disconnects (e.g., http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/k ... l-liq.html) For a standard Sankey tap, you can tie in something like this (http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/t ... 4-mfl.html) or to tie into some tubing you already have, use something like this (http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/1 ... b-s-s.html). That way, you can pretty easily switch between homebrew and commercial.

And as Matt mentioned, you will need kegs. You probably already figured that out. A refrigerator is nice to have, too. It keeps the beer cold.

And yes, kegging rocks.

apparently you need white space before "http" for it to convert to a link. A paren doesn't do the trick. Who'd a thunk?

reposted w/ linkeys

yep, the high pressure gauge on the standard dual-guage regulator is pretty much worthless. You definitely want to have 5-6 ft of 3/16" bev line to drop the pressure for serving. Hot tap water didn't work for me, but I have the thermostat on my hot water turned down pretty low (for safety reasons w/ the small primate running around the house). But yeah, by "a couple of minutes", what I really meant was whatever small fraction of time, that I don't exactly remember, that it took for the line to get soft. The sankey tap is not a bad thing to have around. I like using a barbed swivel nut ( http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/k ... l-nut.html) with the 1/4" MFL disconnects (e.g., http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/k ... l-liq.html) For a standard Sankey tap, you can tie in something like this ( http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/t ... 4-mfl.html) or to tie into some tubing you already have, use something like this ( http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/1 ... b-s-s.html). That way, you can pretty easily switch between homebrew and commercial.

And as Matt mentioned, you will need kegs. You probably already figured that out. A refrigerator is nice to have, too. It keeps the beer cold.

And yes, kegging rocks.